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Illuminating Fashion: Dress in the Art of Medieval France and the Netherlands, 1325-1515, by Anne H. van Buren
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A comprehensive study of dress in Northern Europe from the early fourteenth century to the beginning of the Renaissance, Illuminating Fashion is the first thorough study of the history of fashion in this period based solely on firmly dated or datable works of art. It draws on illuminated manuscripts, early printed books, tapestries, paintings, and sculpture from museums and libraries around the world.
“Symbolism and metaphors are buried in the art of fashion,” says Roger Wieck, the editor of Illuminating Fashion. Examining the role of social customs and politics in influencing dress, at a time of rapid change in fashion, this fully illustrated volume demonstrates the richness of such symbolism in medieval art and how artists used clothing and costume to help viewers interpret an image.
At the heart of the work is A Pictorial History of Fashion, 1325 to 1515, an album of over 300 illustrations with commentary. This is followed by a comprehensive glossary of medieval English and French clothing terms and an extensive list of dated and datable works of art. Not only can this fully illustrated volume be used as guide to a fuller understanding of the works of art, it can also help date an undated work; reveal the shape and structure of actual garments; and open up a picture’s iconographic and social content.
It is invaluable for costume designers, students and scholars of the history of dress and history of art, as well as those who need to date works of art.
- Sales Rank: #2238048 in Books
- Published on: 2011-05-03
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 12.43" h x 1.89" w x 9.40" l, 6.40 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 448 pages
Review
“an invaluable resource for attribution and dating” Reference and Research Book News
“The quality of the illustrations is exceptional, and the time line of 300-plus images is replete with lucid commentary” K. E. Staab, Choice
“Visually informative and very attractive” Jane Bridgeman, The Art Newspaper
“Highly recommended” Andrea Walton, ARLIS
“a definitive guide to medieval fashion that should prove useful for scholars and designers alike” Karen Rosenberg, The New York Times
“This volume is a feast for the eyes as well as an invaluable tool for specialists and non specialists in the field of fashion” Nuova Informazione Bibliografica
About the Author
Anne Hagopian van Buren, who died in 2008, was an eminent art historian. A specialist in medieval and Netherlandish art, she was the editor of Early Netherlandish Paintings: Rediscovery, Reception and Research (2005). Roger S. Wieck is curator of Medieval and Renaissance Manuscripts at the Morgan Library & Museum and author of 'Late Medieval and Renaissance Illuminated Manuscripts: 1350-1522, In the Houghton Library' (2005) and 'Time Sanctified: The Book of Hours in Medieval Art and Life' (2001).
Most helpful customer reviews
23 of 23 people found the following review helpful.
a book of exceptional beauty, interesting subject
By Ivor E. Zetler
This book is a catalog of an exhibition presently being held at the Morgan Library. Its subtitle is "Dress in the Art of Medieval France and the Netherlands, 1325-1515". The text was mainly written by Anne van Buren (1927-2008), an expert in the visual culture of the late medieval Burgundian Netherlands as well as fashion of the time. Sadly she died before the completion of this magnificent publication.
After the introductory chapter describing dress in late medieval art, the bulk of the catalog presents a pictorial history of fashion, 1325-1515. The illustrations are mainly of illuminated manuscripts of the period as well as a few paintings, drawings and sculptures. It is to be noted that the illuminations are of exceptional quality, preservation and interest. These give impressions of changing fashions over time. It is instructive to observe the different types of dress worn by different strata of society.
Language enthusiasts will delighted to encounter exotic words such as aketon (jacket), aventail (part of helmet), chaperon or howve (hoods), houpeland (outer garment), mahewter (shoulder pad)and vambrace (a defence plate). An extensive glossary describes these terms. It is to be noted that this book can be enjoyed by enthusiasts of illuminated manuscripts and art of this era even if (like myself)you have no particular interest in the dress fashion of this era.
This quality and clarity of the color illustrations in this substantial volume is exceptional. Additionally the text is lucidly written by an authority on the subject. Very highly recommended.
15 of 18 people found the following review helpful.
subtitle says it all
By critic
An amazing compilation of images, with an unrivalled glossary of terms. Beautiful! As art history, it's a life's work from an expert.
As dress history--well, I wouldn't bother. "Illuminating Fashion" is a clever title for an exhibition; what this book is about is "Dress in the Art of Medieval France and the Netherlands, 1325-1515". There is no indication that the author or her colleagues have much familiarity with sources in dress history or material culture, i.e., tailoring. And, make no mistake, these were tailored garments!
This is a useful text for art history students who want to learn more about a subject that may seem quite esoteric. For anyone who wants to learn more about who wore what and when, stick to the usual sources in what used to be called "costume" history.
11 of 15 people found the following review helpful.
Splendid monograph
By Wayne Dynes
This is a subject I have always wanted to learn more about, as it deals with the era in which (arguably) fashion began in Europe.
The product of many years of sustained scholarship, this book is superbly illustrated. As such, it will be very appealing to those interested in illuminated manuscripts. The glossary in French and English is invaluable. All in all, the book is a remarkable achievement.
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